Jancis Robinson (UK)

Jancis Robinson: “Grüner really does seem to be the variety of choice for this producer!

2019
17.5 of 20 Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben Reserve 2017
17 of 20 Grüner Veltliner Bürsting Reserve 2017
17 of 20 Grüner Veltliner Sauberg Reserve 2017
16.5 of 20 Grüner Veltliner Hermanschachern 2017
16.5 of 20 Riesling Alte Reben 2017
16.5 of 20 Blanc de Blancs Zero Dosage 2010
16 of 20 Grüner Veltliner Black Edition 2016
16 of 20 Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC  2017
16 of 20  Weissburgunder Alte Reben 2017
16 of 20 St. Laurent Alte Reben 2015
16 of 20 Pinot Noir Black Edition 2013
15.5 of 20 Roter Traminer Maxendorf 2017
15 of 20 Rosa Kalk 2017

Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben Reserve 2017: 17.5
Grapes from 60-year-old vines in the Steinberg vineyard on gravel picked at Auslese ripeness. RS 4.3 g/l, TA 5.5 g/l.Straw colour without much greenish tinge. Very intense nose. Impressive purity of fruit but arresting drama too. Very exciting and persistent.13% | Drink 2018-2028
£32 Roberson

Grüner Veltliner Bürsting Reserve 2017: 17
50-year-old vineson loam. RS 3.8 g/l, TA 5.3 g/l.
Firm greenish pale gold. Heady nose with some broad ripeness and a vegetal note. Lots to get
your teeth into here. Hint of lemon oil. Very pure. Interesting. Still a little chewy on the end.
Impressively juicy. 13% | Drink 2019-2026
£25 Roberson (2016)

Grüner Veltliner Sauberg Reserve 2017: 17
55-year-old vines on gravel and loam. RS 2.4 g/l, TA 5.5 g/l.
Deep greenish straw. Relatively light nose at the moment. Then on the palate is great juiciness
and appeal. A nice stony streak overlaid with very pure, precise fruit. Long and vibrant on the
end. Already accessible. Well done! 13% | Drink 2018-2025

Grüner Veltliner Hermanschachern 2017: 16.5
Single vineyard on limestone. RS 1.1 g/l, TA 5.6 g/l.
Ripe pear aromas – riper than the Weinviertel DAC wine. Elegant, dancing impact on the
palate. Clearly with lots still to come. Very long and pungent. 13% | Drink 2018-2026
£23 Roberson

Riesling Alte Reben 2017: 16.5
Nearly 70-year-old vines in the gravel and pebbles Steinberg vineyard. RS 9.5 g/l, TA 7.2 g/l.
Deep gold. Peppery and herbal. Very unlike most Rieslings; much richer and oilier. Grüner
really does seem to be the variety of choice for this producer! I could imagine enjoying this
with charcuterie in a year or two but it’s a bit too chewy for comfort at the moment. But
there’s a heck of a lot packed in there…13% | Drink 2019-2025

Blanc de Blancs Zero Dosage 2010: 16.5
RS 0 g/l. Handpicked Chardonnay grapes grown at Ried Alte Geringen. The soil is predominately loess. After the second fermentation, wine is left for six years on lees in bottle. No sulphur.
Deep gold. Like Loimer’s, this fizz has some autolysis on the nose. It’s much richer, however,
and is a bit of an antique! Tastes a bit like an old champagne – which of course a 2010
champagne wouldn’t – but it’s a nice wine. 13% Drink 2016-2021

Grüner Veltliner Black Edition 2016: 16
Very fancy packaging, with a heavy black bottle, black wax seal, black labels, the lot presented in a black drawstring bag. There’s a theme here…
Mid greenish straw. Intensely aromatic, very lightly reductive, nose. Extremely pure essenceof-Grüner nose. Tight and fresh and only just ready to drink. Admirably delicate on the palate
with great fruit/acid balance and impressive persistence. Just goes on and on. I’m still
experiencing this wine on the finish – although the nose seems to have diminished
considerably. Let me monitor this over time. Hint of grapefruit peel. It’s certainly good, but is it
very good? My score at the moment suggests good. Finish great, nose a little evanescent. 13% |
Drink 2018-2022

Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC  2017: 16
The only blend from different sites from this enterprising winery.
Full of rich, jellied nose – reminds me of Turkish delight! Marked acidity but made with great
precision. 12% | Drink 2019-2022
£16 Roberson

Weissburgunder Alte Reben 2017: 16
60-year-old vines onloess with a high limestone content. RS 1 g/l, TA 6.4 g/l.
Ripe fruit and a good acidity level but there is not the intensity of the Grüners. A little bit
austere on the end. The producers suggest this will last even longer than their Grüners but I’m not sure. Though there is a little bit of the popcorn flavour of the variety. 13% | Drink 2018-2023

St. Laurent Alte Reben 2015: 16
Transparent garnet Pinot Noir sort of colour. Rather an agricultural nose. Frank fruit that’s nicely balanced and quite delicate on the palate. I wouldn’t cellar this wine that is well soft enough to drink without food. Reasonable charm here, but this doesn’t seem particularly ambitious. Pretty finish
though. 13% | Drink 2017-2020

Pinot Noir Black Edition 2013: 16
The full black monty for this wine (see details with its white counterpart). Very pale ruby – this almost looks dilute. Appealing light mushroomy nose. Sweet and satiny. Not as fresh as a red burgundy would be but it’s beguiling. All very low key but it works in a light pomade sort of way. Very clean but in a pale register. May have been a bit more vital when younger. 13% | Drink 2016-2020

Roter Traminer Maxendorf 2017: 15.5
This is marked Alte Reben on the back label. Packaged in a screwcapped half litre.
Light but pure Traminer nose. Pretty dry with a good charge of fruit but with some phenolics
on the end. Just very very slightly oily. Not thrilling but correct. 13.5% | Drink 2018-2020

Rosa Kalk 2017: 15
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot.
Pale tomato colour, looks like a saignée. Smells broad and just a little bit sickly. Good fruity
front palate but then the acid is a rather separate entity. Not very fine with a bit of a hole in
the middle. 12.5% | Drink 2018-2019

 

 

2018
Latest reviews – Jancis Robinson: “This is an uncompromising producer!”

“The Ebner-Ebenauer wines represent an impressive if very selective picture of the Weinviertel.”

18 von 20 Grüner Veltliner „Alte Reben“ 16
18 von 20 Grüner Veltliner „Black Edition“ 16
17.5 von 20 Grüner Veltliner “Sauberg” 16
17 von 20 Grüner Veltliner „Bürsting“ 16
17 von 20 Grüner Veltliner „Hermanschachern“ 16
16.5 von 20 Weinviertel DAC 16
16 von 20 Grüner Veltliner 16

Alte Reben Gruner Veltliner Reserve 2016: 18
Their oldest Grüner vineyard – over 60 years old, on a gravelly soil. About 16-24 hours skin contact, spontaneous ferment, 70% in 500-litre barrels without temperature control. Long lees ageing before bottling in August 2017.Seductively creamy aroma but still with a stony/mineral dry character. On the palate this is gorgeous. Fantastic intensity, perfectly Grüner – could be nothing else – and with great texture, length and freshness. This is even better than the 2015. Outstanding harmony and a classic expression of Grüner from a great site. (JH)

Bursting Gruner Veltliner Reserve 2016: 17
Their oldest Grüner vineyard – over 60 years old, on a gravelly soil. About 16-24 hours skin contact, spontaneous ferment, 70% in 500-litre barrels without temperature control. Long lees ageing before bottling in August 2017. This still has all the hallmarks of fine Grüner: a stony, white-pepper quality to the citrus and a gentle herbal note and it has as well a mild and inviting creamy character from the oak influence. Firm in texture with a delicious orange-pith quality that is both flavour and texture. More power here than on the Hermanschachern and still beautifully balanced between fruit and texture. Long, tangy finish with a note of grapefruit in the fresh aftertaste. It may well age longer than I have suggested but it is already very good. (JH)

Hermannschachern Gruner Veltliner 2016: 17
The grapes from this vineyard are always harvested between Kabinett and Spätlese ripeness to retain minerality and saltiness – otherwise it would produce much higher sugar levels. Limestone and loess. Twelve hours skin contact. Spontaneous ferment in steel tanks and eight months on lees.
Very stony mineral overlay to fresh citrus fruit, more mineral than white pepper here. And it does have a real salty character on the nose. In the mouth it is even more marked, beautifully firm and dry and with a texture I would describe as peppery, as it is had very fine grains like finely milled pepper. There’s a delicious texture here, impressive length and excellent freshness. Very good indeed and even better than the 2015. Long, subtle, mouth-watering and moreish. (JH)

Sauberg Gruner Veltliner Reserve 2016: 17.5
Sauberg is owned by the Catholic church, and vines are over 50 years old. It is the high plateau behind the Bürsting vineyard, with a mix of clay, loess and stones. Tends to reach high ripeness levels. 16-24 hours skin contact. Spontaneous fermentation in 500-litre barrels and tank. Long lees contact and bottled August 2017.
Smells a little richer than the Bürsting, more spice and yet the Grüner white-peppery character shines through. There’s a creamy citrus gentleness on the nose allied to real power and drive on the palate. perfect balance of intensity and freshness. Very long and finely textured thanks to the careful winemaking. Peppery aftertaste. Another impressive wine from a region that struggles to gain recognition in comparison with its more famous Danube neighbours such as Kremstal and Wachau. (JH)

Gruner Veltliner Weinviertel 2016: 16.5
From the single vineyard called Birthal, light and pure sandy soils – the beach from an ancient sea. Vines 30+ years. Eight hours skin contact, fermented spontaneously in steel tanks. Six months on lees.Peppery citrus aroma with tangy lime fruit on the palate. Super-crisp and clean-cut and an almost dusty mineral character. Bone dry with a gentle phenolic grip, like the grain of pears, that works really well to add depth, length and interest. I don’t know the price but I imagine this would be GV. (JH)

Gruner Veltliner 2016: 16
This is their basic Grüner from younger vines (younger than 30 years). Harvested by hand, 6 hours’ skin contact. Fermented in steel with selected yeast and spends 7 months on the lees.
Light stony aroma but still typically Grüner with a touch of white pepper and fresh pears. Lively, dry and with a long, slightly herbal finish, all the while that stony character shines through the fruit. Perfectly judged freshness on the finish and the merest hint of tannic texture from the skin contact – in a good way, adding length and interest. (JH)