Antonio Galloni (USA)
Latest reviews – David Schildknecht: „Ebner-Ebenauer believes the results of their recent conversion to organic viticulture …“
Marion Ebner and her husband Manfred Ebenauer caught a break with the 2015 growing season, one of the few since they founded their estate in 2007 to have made possible both high quality and good quantity. Conditions allowed harvest to be delayed until well into October, which was fortunate given that a stubborn retention of acidity in the grapes reminded Marion Ebner of 2010. “I’m sure this was because most of the vines went into self-defense mode at the height of summer,” she explained. Once picking began in 2015, though, it was less leisurely than most growers reported, and the crew was augmented to insure au point raw material and rapid pressing. The estate now has the capacity for cooling incoming musts, but Ebner reports that in 2015 it largely sufficed that the Riesling and Grüner Veltliner got picked in the morning and if any picking took place in the afternoon it was for Burgundian varieties. Poysdorf, in Austria’s extreme northeast, certainly exhibits growing conditions distinctive from those in other parts of the Weinviertel, not to mention in the Krems area. Still, I think it’s a fair guess that Ebner and Ebenauer’s quality-consciousness and attention to detail are largely responsible for a crop of 2015s that reflect none of the simple fruitiness and relative anonymity that characterize many wines of this vintage. Ebner believes the results of their recent conversion to organic viticulture and their attendant composting are also reflected in this year’s high quality. Virtually every lot fermented spontaneously this year, which I, like Ebner, suspect is also contributory to a consistently high level of performance as well as to alcohol levels moderate relative to must weights. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introduction to my report on its 2013s.)
92 von 100 Grüner Veltliner „Bürsting“ 15
91 von 100 Weißer Burgunder „Alte Reben“ 15
90 von 100 Grüner Veltliner 15
91 von 100 Weinviertel DAC 15
90 von 100 Grüner Veltliner „Hermanschachern“ 15
91 von 100 Traminer „Alte Reben“
